The Big Lap around Australia is the trip of a lifetime. Even after exploring all seven continents, Australia is still one of our favorites. For 16 months we lived in Lil’ Beaut, our Toyota Coaster, and traveled 40,000 kilometers. The trip took us around the perimeter of Australia, through each state and territory, and down the red center.
The map below can help you plan your own adventure. Zoom in to see where we stopped along the way. Dots with a paperclip icon are clickable for articles related to that area.
Planning a trip takes a lot of time. If you are short of time and want to have an outback adventure with some of our favorite Australians check out Rough as Guts. This is not a paid advertisement, the owners of Rough as Guts truly are among our favorites and will provide an adventure as authentic as it gets.
Traveling the Big Lap cost us $20K USD ($32K AUD). That is an average of $1,260 USD per month ($ 2,051 AUD). Check out our charts with detailed spending and tips for saving for information on how much it cost us to do the Big Lap.
Check out our guides below to help you plan your trip.
The Edge of the World lies on a rocky windswept coast and we were headed to its stormy shore. But Read more
Australia
The legendary big lap is a route that circles the continent of Australia following highway 1. Since 85% of the Australian population live within 50km of the ocean this lap also leads through every major city except Alice Springs in the center of the continent.
From 2019 to 2021 we lived in a Toyota Coaster motorhome that we lovingly called Lil’ Beaut. We put over 40,000 kilometers on that bus as we explored the Big Lap with a little detour down to the center. It was definitely the trip of a lifetime.
Check out how much it cost and our favorite places below.
Our journey through Queensland included small towns, flat desert planes, and remote outback camping. The scenery varied from the central lowlands’ flat expanse to the lush waterfalls of Millaa Millaa. A dense rainforest, the oldest living one in the world, borders the Great Barrier Reef, the largest living structure in the world. Queensland is a place for adventure, awe, and wonder.
Lil Beaut, a 2WD Toyota Coaster, was our home and transport through this spectacular state.
To give an idea of its size, here are a few facts about Queensland. Feel free to skip to the table of contents below to find 20 places we loved.
Queensland (QLD) Size and Population
To begin to grasp the wide-open spaces and secluded wonderlands found in Queensland, comparing the size and population density can help.
Queensland, Australia is 2.5 times the size of Texas, USA. It is larger than 13 *European countries combined.
Queensland is the second largest state in Australia with an area of 1,727,000km² (666,798.4mi²). Western Australia is the largest Australian state. Texas has an area of 696,200 km 2 (268,820mi²).
*France, Germany, Poland, Hungary, Austria, Czech Republic, Croatia, Slovakia, Switzerland, Netherlands, Belgium, Slovenia, and Montenegro combined are 1,730,233km² (668,046mi²).
What is the population of Queensland?
Queensland, Australia has a population of 5.01 million. The density of Queensland's population is only 7% of the density of Texas and 2% of the population density of *Europe.
Queensland's population is 3 people per square kilometer (7.5 per square mile). Texas's population density is 43 people per square kilometer (111 per square mile) *Thirteen European countries combined have a population density of 146 people per square kilometer (377 per square mile)
Texas population is 29.7 million (according to worldpopulation review). *Comparing 13 European countries:France, Germany, Poland, Hungary, Austria, Czech Republic, Croatia, Slovakia, Switzerland, Netherlands, Belgium, Slovenia, and Montenegro combined population in 2020 was 252 million (according to Worldometers).
How much cattle live in Queensland?
In 2016 the cattle population of Queensland, Australia was 10.6 million. That's twice the number of humans.
20 Things to See in Queensland (QLD)
Click on the region below to see the table of contents for that area.
The highway connecting the top of Queensland from east to west is called The Savannah Way. It is an iconic and destination scenic drive.
The section west of Normanton is a rough 4WD-only track. If entering from the Northern Territory in a 2WD route 66 will bypass the rougher section. The Savannah Way can then be caught by going north at Cloncurry.
The bitumen, only as wide as one car, covers half of each lane creating a paved section in the middle of the highway. Oncoming traffic can be seen far in advance. Both vehicles veer a bit to the left with only half the vehicle on the paved center when they pass.
The small towns along the way are not only great for stocking up on supplies but also for their fascinating history. The community pools along the way are great, don’t miss Georgetown for a quick dip on a hot afternoon.
A life-sized replica of Krys, The Savannah King, the largest ever Estuarine Crocodile captured in the world. Krys was 8.63 meters (28ft 4in). He was captured in Normanton by Krystina Pawloski. The outback is adventurous!
The majority of Far North Queensland is accessible by 4WD only. Cooktown is the end of the route for 2WD, or as most like to say the start of their 4WD adventures. Since we were in our Lil’ Beaut, a Toyota Coast bus, Cooktown was our most northern destination in FNQ.
Even with just exploring the 2WD areas, there was still so much to see.
Looking inland from Grassy Hill Lookout in Cookstown. Captain Cook seriously damaged his vessel on the Great Barrier Reef in 1770. In the distance is the river that he sailed his damaged vessel in for repair.
2) Cooktown
Captain Cook spent the longest onshore stay of his entire voyage in Cooktown. Shipwrecked he gazed out over the Great Barrier reef from the Grassy Hill Lookout and felt despair. As far north and south as he could see was the reef locking him in.
Today Cooktown offers numerous trails up to the Grassy Hill lookout where visitors can try and imagine how Captain Cook felt. Instead of despair, however, most feel wonder and awe at the sites. The Great Barrier Reef is much closer to shore here in the north than it is along the southern portion.
When the sun is out the view of the reef from this lookout is gorgeous. Looking inland the river where Captain Cook anchored his ship for repairs is visible.
Art in the sand created by the crabs
Many of the beaches are secluded and covered with artwork from the crabs. After the tide smooths out the sand, millions of crabs go to work clearing out their homes by making tiny sand balls and rolling them onto the beach. The result is a beach covered with designs like individual Rorschach images. Visitors can see any kind of artwork that their psyche predisposes them to.
The botanical garden is filled with orchids and other local fauna and is worth an afternoon visit.
Looking over the top of the dense canopy of the Daintree.
3) The Daintree to Cape Tribulation
The oldest continually surviving tropical rain forest in the world is like a walk back in time.
We chose to scuba-dive in the Great Barrier Reef from Port Douglas. Due to the proximity day trips are available to the reef. Further south, dive trips are generally multi-day livaboard trips. Click below to find out what diving on the greatest reef where sharks and deadly creatures abound.
We love audiobooks for road trips and we prefer to find stories set in locations we will be visiting. That is how we discovered Candice Fox and her Crimson Lake crime fiction series. We loved the books so much that we couldn’t wait to explore Cairns near the fictitious town of Crimson Lake.
Massive tree in the Cairns Botanical Garden
For those of you not into crime fiction, Cairns is still worthy of a visit. In town, we enjoyed Flecker Botanic Garden is a beautiful way to spend the afternoon. Barron Gorge National Park just north of Cairns is a great place to camp. The Stoney Creek Track is a fantastic hiking option and is a stunning place to cool off in the clear pool below the waterfalls.
Just south of Cairns don’t miss a stop at the Barron Falls Outlook.
6) Atherton Tablelands
The Waterfall Way through the lush Atherton Tablelands is a multi-day journey. Some suggest 2-4 days. We took a couple of weeks to fit in more hikes and include the surrounding falls like Tully Gorge. The tableland rests above the tropical east coast and is part of the great dividing range of Australia.
Yungaburra is part of the Atherton Tablelands but I have given a separate highlight for the chance to see a platypus. Watching a platypus in the wild was high on our list of things to see.
Platypi are such a unique creatures. They are semi-aquatic, egg-laying mammals with bills like a duck’s, and tails like a beaver’s, and the male platypus is venomous.
The stream that runs through Yungaburra is known for its local population of platypi. We determined to walk alongside the stream every day until we saw one. Thankfully we saw an entire family on the first day and had the opportunity of following them on the path as they made their way downstream.
8) Mission Beach
If you missed seeing a Casuary in the Daintree, Mission Beach is the next best opportunity.
As water cascades from the cliff top Wallaman falls is changed by the wind sometimes becoming a mist watering the surrounding cliff. When the sun is shining rainbows dance in the mist. The hike down into the gully is quite steep but worth the hike. Be sure to take swimmers for a dip at the bottom.
10) Paluma State Forest
The Paluma State Forest is just north of Townsville. The rainforest is a welcome respite from the heat. and offers hikes, waterfalls, and waterholes.
We enjoyed a full afternoon along Crystal Creek sliding down the smooth rock surface. The natural water slide led down into a swimming hole with crystal clear water.
There are great lookouts along the hike up to Birthday Creek Falls that are a must see.
11) The Whitsundays
The easiest way to see the best beaches in the Whitsundays is by taking a tour. We generally take very few tours preferring to see things on our own, but this was definitely worth the cost.
The area around Whitsunday can be expensive, but there is free camping in Proserpine. Proserpine even has a free Olympic-sized pool. Be sure to stock up on supplies and fill up your fuel tank in Proserpine not only to save yourself some money but to also support this generous town.
12) Finch Hatton Gorge
Finch Hatton Gorge offers a stunning walk through the sub-tropical rainforest with ferns that dwarfed us.
The Araluen Cascades flow beside the Wheel of Firewalk. The clear water is an inviting place to take a dip. Some even jump off the small cliff nearby, but there are large boulders in the water so jumpers beware.
Just one hour towards the coast is Cape Hillsborough National park. The forest walk along the coast here is filled with butterflies. The beach has large volcanic rocks. When the tide is low Wedge Island can be walked to. Camping is available along the tidal river.
13) Rockhampton to Yeppoon
Viewpoint on top of an ancient coral reef in Etna National Park
Yeppoons Negative Edge Pool
Just outside of Rockhampton is the Mount Etna National Park with limestone caves and unique rock formations. The hikes are have great views of the surrounding landscape. There are various signs to read with more information about the geology and one pipe set up to view a specific geological formation. I looked through the pipe and only saw two frogs huddled together inside. It was one of my favorite views of the day.
Yeppoon, not much farther over to the coast, has my favorite community pool in Australia. The negative edge pool overlooks the ocean and there are little islands within the pool with palm trees. No one else was in the pool when we were there. A few times I had to swim quite some way to find Trin. It is a massive pool.
14) Great Sandy National Park
Great Sandy National Park
Great Sandy National Park
One of the primary features of the Great Sandy National Park is Frasier Island where a tall rainforest grows in the sand. It is also home to many freshwater lakes and colored sand.
The Great Sandy National Park also has wonderful trails and sites to see from the mainland.
South East Queensland (includes the Darling Downs)
15) Pine Forestry area and Brumbies
A swath of land in NSW near the coast is being utilized for sustainable forestry. It’s quite amazing to see the process and hear about the care and thought put into our ecological system. According to the Sustainable Forest Management, of the 134 million hectares of forest in Australia, 98% is classified as native forest.
I would rather see products made of biodegradable wood as opposed to plastic. Of course, the best would be to reduce consumption – we throw so much away.
The swath of land here is used over and over with trees continually replanted. An expert forester gave us a tour and told us that young pine trees, since they grow rapidly from the seedling stage, are removing massive quantities of CO2 and releasing lots of O2. As the tree ages, the rate slows. The trees are then harvested and the process begins again.
A pack of wild brumbies roams the forestry land here. Be sure to try and catch a glimpse of them running free.
16) Noosa
Noosa National Park juts out from the coast giving beautiful views of the long beautiful Alexandria Bay. The rocks cliffs form a rock pool at fairy point creating a nice swim hole. The hike is worth a stop to spend a day and explore.
17) Australia Zoo
Is there any more reason than “Steve Erwin” to visit the Australia Zoo? I loved watching the Crocodile Hunter with Steve and Terri Erwin. A trip to the Erwin Zoo felt like a bit of homage to his legacy.
His family carries the same love for animals that he did. It was a bit surreal to sit in the stadium and watch the crocodile show.
Generally, I prefer to see wildlife in their natural habitat or in a rescue center. However, this “zoo” felt more open and natural than just animals in cages. It covers 700 acres and the animals have room to roam some of them mingling in the fields where they can graze.
18) Glass House Mountains
At the top of Mount Ngungun Trin and I stared in wonder at the strange landscape before us. In 1770 Lieutenant James Cook saw this view and described the landscape as “remarkable with the hills resembling glass houses.”
Ancient molten activity forced liquid rock upwards just below the surface of land whose traditional owners were the Jinibara and Kabi Kabi people. As time passed the magma cooled and cracked. Soil surrounding tessellated hexagonal columns eventually washed away. What stands today are singular formations spread apart. Each one standing alone. The climb to their tops is steep and rough.
Aboriginal people see Mount Beerwah as the pregnant mother and the other hills as her children. To them Beerwah is sacred and they do not climb her. We took the trail that circled the base of Beerwah to see each spectacular side. We climbed the nearby Coonowrin hill. Each lookout along the way displayed unique views of the “glass” hills dotting the landscape.
The lookouts stand on the hardened volcanic remnants that once moved below the surface. They now stand forever hardened in stone, the breeze whispering stories of this ancestral home.
19) Gold Coast
The Gold Coast is south-southeast of Brisbane (Brissy) the capital of Queensland. This is the place for beach lovers who also enjoy shopping. Trin and I don’t enjoy shopping and we prefer mountains but the Gold Coast was beautiful. The skyscrapers right on the beach are a sight to see.
20) Springbrook National Park
Springbrook is filled with waterfalls and hikes. During our visit a fine mist was in the air making the forest feel mystical. The mist was beautiful in the forest, but no so much at the “Best of all Lookout.” When we arrived at the lookout all we could see was white mist. We joked that maybe the lookout name was sarcastic.
Amazing Australia
After exploring Queensland keep the adventure up in the other states and territories.
The legendary big lap is a route that circles the continent of Australia following highway 1. Since 85% of the Australian population live within 50km of the ocean this lap also leads through every major city except Alice Springs in the center of the continent.
From 2019 to 2021 we lived in a Toyota Coaster motorhome that we lovingly called Lil’ Beaut. We put over 40,000 kilometers on that bus as we explored the Big Lap with a little detour down to the center. It was definitely the trip of a lifetime.
Check out how much it cost and our favorite places below.
Western Australia is vast open land with many wonders to explore. With the majority of the population of the state living in and around Perth there is much to explore. If you are planning to explore Western Australia – which I highly recommend – below are 25 places along the way that we loved. Everything on this list can be accessed with 2WD. We did it all from our Coaster named Lil’ Beaut.
Traversing overland through Western Australia is an adventure not only because of the beauty but its sheer size and remote feeling. Always carry extra food and water in case of a breakdown. It can be a long way between stations. On major roads, there is enough traffic that you won’t be totally destitute if you break down. Australians have proven over and over to us that they are always willing to help. But on more remote roads, always inform someone where you will be going. There were parks that we visited and never saw another soul or passed another vehicle the entire time there. If you get stuck, you could be stuck a while so go prepared.
How Big is Western Australia?
Western Australia is larger than nine states in the USA combined or sixteen countries in Europe
What is the size of Western Australia compared to USA and Europe?
Western Australia covers 975,685 sq miles (2,527,013 km2). Compared to the USA Western Australia is larger than California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Nevada, Utah, and Arizona combined. These states combined are 971,252 sq miles (2,515,532 km2).
Compared to Europe Western Australia is larger than sixteen European countries including Germany, Spain, France, and Italy. These countries 974,583 square miles (2,524,160 km2).
What is the population of Western Australia compared to USA and Europe?
Western Australia has a population of 2.7 Million, 1.7 Million of that population lives in Perth.
The same area of land in the USA has a population of 68 Million.
In Europe, the same area of land has a population of 414.7 Million.
How long does it take to travel Western Australia?
If you were to just drive around the coastal edge of Western Australia without stopping it would take at least 60 hours. Now add in a few stops and sights you want to see. We spent four months touring this stunning state to see these 25 sites. We could have taken much longer and still not have seen it all.
Six months in Western Australia
We spent six months in Western Australia and were astounded at the beauty and diversity of both the shoreline and the interior. Two of the six months were spent in lock-down because of the 2020 pandemic. Roelands, WA became our home for two months thankfully to the generosity of kind Australians. Something we have found all across the big island down here, people willing to lend a hand.
Our favorite spots to visit are listed below, some we describe and some we have already dedicated an entire post to so I will just link to them. We hope you explore this wonderful region someday.
Twenty-Five Key Attractions for your Western Australian Road Trip
There is but one paved road from South Australia to Western Australia if you are road-tripping. The long desolate road across the Nullarbor is filled with beauty and mystery and it is an entrance to the wild and open land of Western Australia.
We camped at Newmans Rocks on our first night in Western Australia. It is located on the western side of the Nullarbor. From there we watched as a new fire near Balladonia grew. We had waited a week in South Australia for the massive fire that had been blocking the road and stopping all traffic. The fire had closed down the Nullarbor. We saw the results of that along the way.
On our second night in Western Australia we parked in Grass Patch. Everything around our campsite had been burned. Be sure to keep an eye on the fire maps and warnings. You don’t want to be stuck somewhere on the Nullarbor if a fire has closed the road ahead. There is really no way around it.
2) Cape La Grand and The Great Ocean Drive: Esperance Area
After the long drive across the Nullarbor, we wanted a nice long dip in the ocean. Up next were beaches around Esperance in the southeast corner of Western Australia.
Just east of Esperance is Le Grand National Park, one of the most beautiful places in the world that we’ve visited. The white sand glimmering through the cerulean blue waters creates one of the most pristine beaches we have ever seen. To the west of Esperance is the Great Ocean Drive. It is an extension of the beauty that begins in Cape Le Grand.
For more details about Cape Le Grand & the Great Ocean Drive read our full article about the Best White Sand Beaches in the world.
Twilight Cove on the Great Ocean Drive
3) Wave Rock
A massive ocean wave high above Trin threatened to break down over him and the sandy soil on which he stood. But it is all an illusion. We were standing in the desert and the wave is frozen in granite. The granite wave is a two-hour drive north of Ravensthorpe, across a flat desert landscape to the town of Hyden.
A walking trail from Wave Rock stretches across a sandy flat that is often flooded during the rainy season to Lake Magic, a salty waterhole around which a small resort was built. The resort looked a bit like a ghost town and there was little magic that made us want to swim in the bluish-green waterhole.
Nearby is Hippo’s Yawn, appropriately named as the large rock looks like the wide-open mouth of a Hippo.
Mulkas’s Cave, part of the Humps, about 16 km from Wave rock is a significant site for Aboriginal art. The Humps are another unique outcrop of giant granite. The trail leading over the humps goes through Mulkas’s cave where 450 separate handprints are painted within the main chamber of the cave.
Wave Rock
4) The Sterling Range
Driving south on Chester Pass Road the bitumen stretched out in a line before us straight all the way to the horizon. Every direction we looked the horizon lay flat. Soon we noticed a change in front of us, small ripples appeared. As we drove they grew larger in our view. It was the Sterling Mountain range. The entire range fit within our camera lens.
We had hoped to hike through the mountains here but a recent fire had destroyed everything and the trails were closed for safety. Trees trunks stood blackened and stripped of all life, soot-covered the earth, and the road signs tilted to the side melted from the heat of the fires.
Then we saw a glimpse of green. It was my favorite grass tree coming back to life. Fresh bright green sprouts like that of springtime after a rain reached skyward from the top of blackened little trunks. It was a beautiful display of life continuing on. Someday we hope to go back and hike this range once it has had time to recover.
Note: We visited the Sterling Range in 2020 just one month after the fire of Dec 2019 raged through the park. Rangers reopened the hiking trails in May of 2020, but it is always good to check the National Park websites first for alerts.
Grass trees epitomize the Australian bush. It was no surprise to see that they were the first to sprout new growth after the fires reflecting the spirit of the people who live here.
5) Castle Rock - Porongurup Range
After passing through the Sterling range we continued south to Castle Rock in the Porongurup Range. Giant granite rocks appear to be stacked precariously in a pile. One such giant stood alone like a titans marble balancing atop a dome. They are solidly grounded and great fun to climb through. Handrails have been installed along the scramble at the end of the trail and a ladder leads to the upper most granite marble. Around it a walkway is affixed to its side. From there Trin and I could see the entire valley beyond.
A couple hand rails to help climb the boulders
Almost to the top of Castle Rock
6) The Gap - Torndirrup National Park
The rocky plateau abruptly ends but the walkway continues past the cliff edge. I gripped the railing as I looked at the ocean far below me. The echo of its crashing waves roared up through The Gap. The skywalk was all we hoped it would be.
Almost all of the brochures for Torndirrup NP have pictures of the sky-walk over The Gap to entice visitors. It is a beautiful site to see, but don’t miss all the other sites this park has to offer along the far edge of the Great Australian Bight.
Cable beach had beautiful rock formations along the water. As each wave coming is captured on top of the rocks and then flows down as little waterfalls onto the beach.
The hike to Stony Hill provides spectacular views of the Southern Ocean. The wind on the top of the massive stony hill can be quite strong. I crawled near the top to keep from being blown off the trail completely.
The out and back walk to Limestone head follows along the ridge that extends out creating the edge of Frenchman’s Bay. The bay can be seen on one side and the Southern ocean on the other for much of the trail.
Trin sitting on Stony Hill
Ridge Trail to Limestone Head
Sky-walk over The Gap
7) Nature's Window - D'Entrecasteaux National Park
Just 30 minutes from Northcliffe is D’Entrecasteaux National Park. Our favorite feature of this park was the cliff walk past Nature’s Window. It is a limestone formation or window down to the ocean from atop the cliff. Looking out this window is like looking out of the mouth of a dragons it’s long teeth made of limestone frame the sea below.
Nearby we climbed to the top of Mt Chudalup. From the top of the granite rock, there is a 360-degree view of the D’Entrecasteaux National Park.
Natures Window in D'Entrecasteaux National Park
Ocean Beach
Mount Chudalup
8) Giant Hardwoods - Karri Trees
In the south west corner of Western Australia grows the only Karri forest in the world. The smooth trunks of the Eucalyptus diversicolor (karri) rise straight and high into the air. Eucalyptus trees are one of the tallest hardwoods in the world. Walking through an entire forest of these giants, feeling the smooth multi-colored trunks, is part of the experience of Western Australia.
Eucalypti trees shed their bark each year. The Karri tree reveals her multi-colored trunk in the spring while producing wispy white flowers.
Boorara Tree
The Boorara tree, located 17 km south east of Northcliffe is a massive tree with metal pegs drilled around it in a spiral. The pegs are used as a ladder. Between 1952 to 1972 a hut was in the top of the tree and used as a fire lookout.
A replica of the cabin that once perched atop the Boorara tree sits on the ground nearby. As I stood inside the tiny replica, I tried to imagine spending the day in that little hut 51 meters (167 feet) above the ground while it swayed 3 meters (almost 10 feet) back and forth in the wind.
The multi-colored trunk of the Karri Tree.
Glouchester & Bicentennial Tree
Near Pemberton, the Glouchester Tree and the Bicentennial Tree can still be climbed by visitors. But beware the metal pegs can get slippery in nervous sweaty hands! But if you don’t want to climb a Eucalyptus tree be sure to at least walk through the base of a few in The Valley of the Giants.
Bicentennial Tree
Red Tingle - Eucalyptus Jacksonii
9) Rock Pools - Margaret River
The Margaret River area has so much to offer between its eucalyptus forest, caves, and vineyards. It is seemingly the perfect place to be during an Australian summer, not too hot, but warm enough to enjoy the beautiful beaches and our favorite rock pool.
In Injidup at the end of Wyadup Road, rocks form a perfect little pool of crystal clear water away from the dangers of rip tides or sharks. But more than just a calm little pool it is also like a playground when the tide is high. Waves crash over the rock wall separating it from the ocean showering down onto swimmers and flowing like a short-lived waterfall over the rocks.
Rock pool in Injidup
Perth to Pilbarra
10) Perth
Boorloo was first owned and occupied by the Noongar people. In 1829, recently arrived Europeans named the settlement Perth. Due to a shortage of labor, the colony accepted penal ships. They requested non-violent criminals that after they served their time could join the workforce for the colony. The gold rush in the late 19th century also created a population boom. Today it is the fourth largest city in Australia.
Many claim that Perth is the most isolated city in the world. It’s not quite the most isolated, but given the ocean on one side and the vast desert separating it from the rest of Australia it is quite isolated. The nearest city of at least 100,000 people is Adelaide on the other side of the Nullarbor 1,300 miles away.
Perth is a beautiful city with a bicycle trail that extends the entire coastline. One of our favorite places to hang out was King’s Park. We walked through the cultivated gardens and spent afternoons relaxing in the shade on the grass. From there we had an unobstructed view of the Swan River and the city of Perth.
The tours of Frematle Prison were an interesting step back in time when Perth was a prison colony. It’s definitely worth a visit.
Boab Tree in Kings Garden
11) The Pinnacles
Pinnacles jut through the sand reaching to the sky in their strange structures. Like a desert scattered with soldiers standing at attention. Only instead of standing in formation, they are scattered, some alone, some standing in groups, but all silent as they stand at attention.
Some say that the Pinnacles are the calcified remains of ancient trees, others say it is a petrified forest. Whatever they are there is an otherworldly feel when you walk off the trail and out alone into the desert among the Pinnacles.
Pinnacles National Park
12) Hutt Lagoon
Australia has many pink lakes and seeing one was high on my list of things to experience.
While we were still in South Australia we pursued “pink lakes” only to find dried-up salt pans. Many of them are only pink during certain times of the year. Even Esperance has a lake called Pink Lake, but it has not been pink since 2011.
Hutt Lagoon in Western Australia is pink year-round so it’s a great stop to add to a road trip. A sunny day will increase the intensity of the pink. It was an odd sight but the pink is natural.
Pink water of the Hutt Lagoon
13) Window to the world - Kalbarri National Park
Kalbarri National Park’s recent claim to fame is a new sky-walk that extends out above the canyon. We were unimpressed with the skywalk but loved the nearby Loop Walk Trail. It meanders past nature’s window along the mountain ridge, down to the river below, and then back to nature’s window.
The walk provides stunning views of the valley and also brings hikers up close to black swans along the river as the magnificent birds glide and trumpet their calls like a chorus of wooden wind instruments. Their sounds echo off the valley walls. It was an earthy sound that gave the area mystique.
We stopped for lunch in a little cave off the side of the trail and quietly soaked in the nature around us as we ate. Two other hikers walked right past us on the path just below us never knowing that we were there.
Coast of Kilbarri National Park
Small cave where we had lunch in Kilbarri
Rock scramble on a trail in Kilbarri
Can you spot Trin on the trail?
14) Shark Bay
Shark Bay is the home of a microscopic ancient jungle, dugongs, the largest seagrass beds in the world, and a beach made of shells.
Thrombolites & Stromatolites live in only a few places in the world. Thrombolites look like uniformly created mounds of cottage cheese hardened to rock but they are a microscopic jungle of bacteria. Stromatolites are similar but grow in layers and are taller. The healthiest structures can be found in Lake Clifton (south of Perth) and Hamlin Bay (North of Perth in Shark Bay). Fossilized Thrombolites & Stromatolites can be found in the interior of Western Australia as well.
The Dugong is a species of manatee that thrives on the massive seagrass beds of Shark Bay. It is a stronghold for the vulnerable population of the Dugong.
Shark Bay has a 37-mile long beach made entirely of shells. It is one of only two in the world composed entirely of shells. The tiny white cockle clams on shell beach in Shark Bay are 23 feet deep.
Plasid waters in Shark Bay on Shell beach
Cockle clams of Shell beach
15) Whale sharks - Coral Bay to Exmouth
As we drove north along the coast we stopped at Coral Bay to snorkel over the coral along the shore. Our favorite snorkeling spot in Western Australia though is just off the coast of Cape Range National Park where the Ningaloo Reef grows.
Narrow canyon walks that lead to small hidden swim holes, having to scramble over rocks and swim through crevices are all part of the adventure awaiting you in Karijini National Park.
For us visiting a truly outback town was high on our list of “experiencing Australia.” We chose Marble Bar and loved every moment of it. Camping there in the outback the grass seemed more golden the sunsets more brilliant. Then there was that vein of Jasper that lines the bed of the creek in Marble Bar. It is a creek that only flows during the wet season. During the dry, the beautiful rocks are exposed and we quite literally laid on a bed of Jasper.
In Port Hedland, we joined a walk with a local lay scientist through the tide pools. The shallow waters were teeming with life. Soft corals gently swayed in the shallow waters as eels slithered by and nudie branches wiggled around. One octopus shot water at us when we tried to take its picture. It was a pretty good shot too.
There is only one paved road east or west out of Port Hedland and to the north is just the ocean. Broome, the next town to the east, is 350 miles away on the Great Northern Highway. One side of this two-lane highway has dirt tracks that lead to Eighty Mile Beach. The other side is the Great Sandy Desert. It is a vast plane that stretches further than a sparrow could fly in a day.
Most of the dirt tracks to the coast are sandy or heavily corrugated and suited only for 4WD. Wallal Downs however was in good enough condition for us to take our Toyota Coaster Bus through giving us the chance to walk on Eighty Mile Beach.
Trin standing on 80 mile beach at sunset
Why is it called Eighty Mile Beach when Australia uses the metric system?
At the time 80-mile beach was named Australia was still using the imperial measuring system. Between 1970 and 1988 the imperial measuring system was replaced with the metric system. Proper names of places remained the same. There are numerous beaches in Australia named for their length in miles.
19) Broome - Dampier Penninsula
Broome’s claim to fame is its beach camel ride. Most people who visit Broome either ride the camels or at least take a picture of them in the sunset. It does make for a nice picture. We skipped the ride. I’ve ridden a camel before, this ride was a bit lame (in our opinion). They did a circle on the beach around the line of vehicles parked for the sunset.
As we traveled around Australia we usually stop in at the visitor center for local information. The Broome visitor center offered no local knowledge, they had no idea what road conditions were north of town nor did they offer any information on how we could find out. Our suggestion is to skip the visitor center and maybe even Broome altogether. The beauty is outside of town.
Broome is the only town in Australia where we left a negative review on the visitor center. The beauty of the area is outside of Broome, my suggestion is to skip the town and drive north on the Dampier Peninsula if you have a 4WD.
Cable Beach
Beach just below Broome
20) Derby
Derby is a great place to stock up on supplies before heading down Gibb River Road. The streets were originally designed to accommodate teams of mules and camels. Now they are open with a line of Boab trees down the center of Main Street. The visitor center is a wealth of information about the area and road conditions. One of the main attractions in Derby is the Boab Prison Tree, believed to be about 1,500 years old.
The Boab tree is protected in the Derby shire so you may even find the odd one in the middle of the road. Take a drive around and explore.
The Boab trees in the center of Derby.
21) Tunnels with Crocodiles
The Gibb River Road is an adventure route for those with 4WD but the first section of the road is mostly paved and Tunnel Creek & Windjana Gorge can be reached with a 2WD vehicle.
The Big Lap, route 1, around Australia crosses the Fitzroy River river at the town aptly named Fitzroy Crossing. The Fitzroy River is one of the longest rivers in Australia and can rise 26 meters above sea level during a heavy wet season.
We hiked along a sandy path through the Geikie Gorge. During the wet season, our path would be the middle of the river. During the dry season, the river shrinks to the lowest-lying area but leaves evidence of its seasonal power in the watermarks on the wall of the gorge. The Geikie Gorge was once part of the Devonian Reef System when this continent was under the sea. The Fitzroy River has cut through the reef leaving a gorge with spectacular cliffs on one side and unique rock formations on the other.
From the sandy trail, we looked down in the river and saw crocodiles lazily swimming out from the bank.
Fitzroy Crossing
23) The Grotto
Traveling east to Kununurra take a short detour heading to Wyndham to hike in The Grotto. The Grotto is a natural amphitheater carved into a riverbed that flows fast during the wet season but dries up to small swim-holes during the dry season. The stunning local swim-hole can be accessed by the 140 steps carved into the canyon wall.
The Grotto, Wyndham
24) Kununurra
The town of Kununurra lies in the flood zone and at times can be surrounded by water and cut off from travel out of town except by boat. Climbing Kelly’s Knob Lookout we watched the sunset over the plains. From that vantage point, the path of the water during the wet could be imagined surrounding the town.
Just outside of Kununurra is Mirima National Park also known as the mini Bungle Bungle. It is a small park but filled with unique rock formations.
It is wise to keep an eye out for kangaroos when driving in Australia, but at Ivanhoe Crossing keep your eyes open for crocodiles swimming across the road. Ivanhoe Crossing is a concrete causeway over which the river flows. Water levels can vary so driving across the causeway should be taken with caution.
Mirima National Park
25) Lake Argyle
Just before leaving Western Australia on the only paved highway connecting Western Australia to the Northern Territory is a peaceful man-made lake called Lake Argyle. A dam built in 1973 on the Ord River created a massive expanse of freshwater. From the reservoir lookout, it made me think of Lake Powell in Utah and Arizona. Both are filled with inlets and bays to explore by boat.
The lake is also home to over 25,000 freshwater crocodiles. The temperature of the water is warm to mild year-round and perfect for swimming for crocks and humans alike.
Lake Argyle
So much more to explore!
This list is just the start, a list of things to help you plan your own adventure. There is so much more to see. As you research don’t forget to find out more about the Gibb River Road and El Questro in the Kimberleys, Bungle Bungle, the Canning Road, and much more.
The legendary big lap is a route that circles the continent of Australia following highway 1. Since 85% of the Australian population live within 50km of the ocean this lap also leads through every major city except Alice Springs in the center of the continent.
From 2019 to 2021 we lived in a Toyota Coaster motorhome that we lovingly called Lil’ Beaut. We put over 40,000 kilometers on that bus as we explored the Big Lap with a little detour down to the center. It was definitely the trip of a lifetime.
Check out how much it cost and our favorite places below.
The Northern Territory (NT) is a vast open land with deserts, escarpments, monoliths, rain-forests, beautiful swim holes, and rivers where prehistoric creatures thrive.
The NT is more than twice the size of Texas. Yet, the tiniest state in the USA, Rhode Island, has almost five times more people. The amount of land compared to the sparse population was difficult to fathom until we experienced it by driving down the Stuart Highway which the locals like to call “the track.”
Size and Population FAQs
How does the size of the Northern Territory compare to other places?
The Northern Territory is 548,600 sq miles. Texas is half the size at 268,597 sq miles. Spain, France and Germany together are still not quite as big. They are a combined 543,000 sq miles.
How does the population of the Northern Territory compare to other places?
The population of the Northern Territory is 245,000 (2020). That is 0.16 people per square kilometre. Rhode Island, the smallest state in the USA, has a population of 1,059,000 or 1,642 people per square kilometre. The population of Spain, France, & Germany combined is 194,713,000 or 138 people per square kilometre.
Camping in the bush was a special experience. No one was around for miles. We were alone with the strange and wonderful sounds of the territory creatures and the beauty of the outback.
Traveling through NT
Making travel plans through the Northern Territory (NT) was fairly simple; the number of paved roads is limited and free camping is abundant. Our biggest decision in NT was whether or not to do Kakadu with our 2WD bus Lil’ Beaut.
There are basically two paved routes extending across NT that form a sort of a humanoid kangaroo (see pic below). One stretches from north to south, Darwin to Adelaide right through the center of Australia. The second connects Western Australia to Queensland in the east (route 1 to route 66).
We put about 6,000 km (4,000 miles) on Lil’ Beaut just traveling on these few paved roads in the Northern Territory.
This is roughly the route we took to explore the Northern Territory.
Traveling during COVID
Leaving Western Australia (WA) was bittersweet. Sweet because of the many wonderful experiences and bitter as it was a one-way ticket – at least for now. Western Australia still has closed borders to keep COVID out. We could leave but we knew we would not be able to go back anytime soon.
Western Australia was our home as we sheltered in place. We were then able to explore the state before leaving. If we had not been there when the world was hit with this virus, the entire state which is 1/3rd of Australia would have been inaccessible to us.
In July, the Northern Territory began to allow people to enter as long as they had not been in hot spots (parts of Victoria and New South Wales at the time we crossed).
It was not uncommon to see clothes on an occasional termite mound along the Stuart Highway
Border crossing
The border crossing was fairly simple. In normal times it would have been a non-event. Border Patrol agents set up an outpost along the desolate road that connects WA to NT. They stopped all vehicles before allowing them to go through.
The border agent asked us a few questions, and we had to fill out some paperwork. After showing the agent our passports and completed paperwork he waved us along and wished us a good journey. With the borders being so strict in WA it was fairly easy to enter NT. There was nowhere else we could have come from on that road.
20 things to see in the Northern Territory
The best time to visit the Northern Territory is during the dry season from May to October, the cooler months from May to July are ideal. During the dry season, the heat and humidity are much lower and most roads are open.
The wet season is November to April. It would be a beautiful season to see but it is also easy to get stuck somewhere for long periods of time due to flooding. We went through NT fairly quickly (for us anyway) as we wanted to see it and most of Queensland before the humidity starts building again in November.
20 Things to see in the Northern Territory of Australia
Our first stop in NT was Keep River National Park. There are a number of short hikes to viewpoints and a long beautiful hike at the north end that stretches across the flat plane and up to a viewpoint on the escarpment. We didn’t see signs of any other human being in the entire park. No other vehicles were on the road or at any of the parking spots or campsites.
It is a bit of a no man’s land right now because it rests between the physical border of Western Australia and the actual checkpoint into the Northern Territory. Since the Western Australian borders are closed not many people are going through this little gem of land.
Lookout in Keep River National Park, NT
Keep River National Park, NT
2) Timber Creek
Heading east there are a number of stops with small hikes but we purposely planned to end up in Timber Creek for sunset. We hiked to the highest point in the area and were able to view the massive green valley all around us. On one side, a small park which is like a mini Bungle Bungle park has a few trails with interesting rock formations that are worth a stop.
One of the fascinating facts about Timber Creek is that it can find itself completely cut off by water during the wet season. From the view point at the highest peak behind the city we could almost envision the floods that would fill the low lying land.
Lookout over the town of Timber Creek
There is also a beautiful little park just beside Timber Creek with good walking trails.
3) Katherine
Katherine is a major intersection in the Northern Territory. From here we could go North to Darwin 271 km north, or we could head to Alice Springs 1,041 km south. Not only is Katherine a great place to fill up on supplies there is something special right near the center of town.
Katherine is renowned for its hot springs. We were already hot with days above 90°F (32°C). Soaking in a thermal pool didn’t sound exactly inviting. Also, being in the middle of town we heard it could get crowded. Still, it couldn’t hurt to stop and see the springs.
As soon as I saw the water I just had to get in. The blue-tinged water was crystal clear and flowed through what looked like a small jungle. Vines, trees, and an abundance of vegetation crowded the edge of the waterway which was quite narrow in places. The white sandy bottom made the stream feel like something out of a fairy tale.
We crawled over a few rocks and into the hole where the spring bubbles up from deep within the earth. The water is the perfect temperature for a nice long soak, warm but not too hot. We tried to dive down under the massive rock from which the water was flowing up but it became dark quickly and too narrow to enter.
From this bubbling origin, the water becomes a gentle stream. Pulling up our feet we floated down the stream talking to a few other travelers passing through Katherine. When we reached the end of the swimming area we got out, walked back to the headwaters, and did it all again.
Trin underwater at Katherine Springs
4) Edith Falls
Edith Falls is in the Nitmiluk National Park just 63 km north of Katherine. Just a few yards from the parking lot in Nitmiluk is a large plunge pool that rests at the bottom of Edith waterfall. Freshies (freshwater crocodiles) can sometimes be found here but they are shy and generally stay clear of humans unlike their massive cousins the Salties (saltwater crocodiles). This pool is monitored for salties and they are removed when found, keeping it a fairly safe swim hole.
There are short 40 minute hikes and full day hikes in the park. We followed the trail that lead to the top of the escarpment from which Edith falls descends and then follow the trail next to the stream into the bush for a little bit. There are a few more waterfalls and swim holes at the top. By the time we finished the loop we were ready to jump into the pool at the base of Edith falls no matter how chilly it was.
We put on our swimmers (swimming clothes in Aus), grabbed our snorkel gear and scurried to the plunge pool. The water is deep and cold but refreshing. Within two steps of the shore we could no longer touch the bottom of the plunge pool. Two sides of the pool are lined with the cliff face from which Edith Falls descends. Even with our snorkels, we could not see the bottom. Trin dove down but never reached the bottom of the pool.
The small falls and stream just above Edith Falls.
5) Litchfield National Park
The water clarity mesmerized us in Litchfield National Park. The tablelands soak up water from the rainy season and slowly release them throughout the year creating continuous waterfalls and streams. Litchfields has great hiking and giant termite mounds, and magnetic ones as well. We spent a few days in Litchfiled and dedicated an entire article to this area about the crocodiles and crystal clear water.
Florence Falls and plunge pool in Litchfield
6) Berry Springs
About 60 km south of Darwin is a spring that makes for a perfect getaway from the city during hot tropical months. Berry Springs flows from the earth and down a small waterfall.
I entered the shallow waters by the cascade and slowly floated downstream. The clarity of the water allowed me to see every detail along the bottom of the stream. A school of fish swam beside me as I let the current take me to the large plunge pool beyond.
The stream opens into a large pool that immediately drops off several meters. We spent a day in the refreshing waters of Berry Springs with Trins cousin Simon and his wife Eunice from Darwin. Afterwards we used the picnic area for a good ol’ BBQ.
Berry Springs
7) Darwin
Darwin is a wet tropical city on the coast of the Northern Territory. It is also the most northerly and smallest capital city in Australia. Even though it is the smallest capital it is still the biggest city in NT with a population of almost 150K (2018 census).
We generally spend minimal time in cities. We pop in, get supplies, check out the waterfront or main points of attraction, and get back out. Because we are not experts on what to see in a city I will give you a link to one of my Aussie friends, Paula Morgan, who has explored the city of Darwin. Check out Paula’s post on the top ten things to do in Darwin.
Darwin city skyline in the distance. Crocodiles love these mangroves that grow along the beach.
8) Mamukala Wetlands
The Mamukala Wetlands is an ideal spot for bird watching. It is also where I lost my sunglasses and Trin offered to risk being eaten by a croc to get them. Marmukala is 223 km west of Darwin so it can be explored as a day trip or as a morning stop on the way to Kakadu.
The highlight of our time in Kakadu was at Cahill’s Crossing. At this crossing, the massive salties (saltwater crocodiles) gather to eat the fish that are brought in when the tidal river rises.
Even without 4WD we were elated with what we were able to see throughout Kakadu. There are billabong hikes, hikes to the top of escarpments, and art walks to see ancient rock art from the Aboriginal people.
The Anbangbang Billabong. Say that fast five times.
10) Bitter Springs
Bitter Springs 110 km south of Katherine on the way to Alice Springs. It is a tropical spring-fed thermal pool. Despite it being more remote than the hot spring in Katherine it is still very popular.
A mask and snorkel gave us a beautiful view beneath the surface as we floated downstream. The blues hues and rays from the sunlight streaming through the water made an eerie yet beautiful underwater world. Fish hide under the vegetation growing on the top of the water near the edge of the stream. We were told that occasionally freshies (freshwater crocodiles) can be found here too, but we didn’t see any.
We floated downstream a few times getting out at the end and walking back to the beginning enjoying each time just as much as the time before it. On the fourth trip back to the beginning we swam upstream from where everyone else was floating. It was there we saw a beautiful long-necked turtle and her young as we navigated the more narrow and deep passages of the stream.
Trin swimming in Bitter Springs
Bitter springs tip:
For fun at Bitter Springs bring your swimmers (swimming suit), snorkel and mask, but don’t take your fins – please. Fins only stir up debris from the bottom giving everyone behind you a murky view. The current is just right for letting its guests float downstream at a gentle pace. Water shoes can be worn but are not necessary. Thongs can be left at the entry point. (For my USA friends – flip flops are called thongs in Aus)
11) Mataranka & the Elsey Homestead
Mataranka is just a boomerang’s throw away from Bitter Springs and is home to another thermal pool. This one, however, is more “developed.” The tiny stream which is a constant 34°C (93°F) is not normally deep enough to swim. One section however was dug out during WWII to provide a pool for officers. The sides have been reinforced with rocks creating a large pool to soak in among the palm fronds.
Mataranka was a nice dip but not as interesting for us as Katherine’s springs or Bitter Springs. Many grey nomads we talked to however liked Mataranka the best.
The pool at Mataranka
Elsey Homestead
Next to the parking lot of the Mataranka pool sits a replica of the Elsey Homestead. It was constructed for the movie “We of the Never Never.” They took care to replicate every detail including the rough-hewn wood.
We borrowed the movie from the library in Katherine before heading down. It is based on a memoir by Jeannie Gunn who lived in one of the stations here in around 1900. The movie is a great way to see the landscape for this area and get a taste of what life might have been like in the Never Never over one hundred years ago.
The Elsey Homestead from the movie We of the Never Never
12) Three Ways
Three ways is an intersection. Just as the name suggests you can go three ways here, north, south, or east. It may seem strange to put an intersection on a list of 20 things to see for NT, but I found it interesting. This turn is the only paved road from the northern territory into Queensland. Route 1 in the north turns into a dirt trek with creek crossings, suitable for 4WD only.
After we left Katherine there were very few intersections that we crossed before Alice Springs. Some turn offs were dirt roads others were paved but only extended into a small community beside the Stuart Highway. This is the turn we would take after exploring the Red Center by Alice Springs on our exit to Queensland.
Signpost at 3-ways advertising the three directions travelers could go from there.
13) Devil’s Marbles
Driving down the Stuart Highway covers a lot of very flat ground. Maybe that is why it is so strange to see large marble-like boulders appear on the horizon seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
It is an excellent place to stop and stretch journey-weary legs. For us it was a must stop as the geology was so intriguing.
The “marbles” in Devil’s Marbles National Park
14) Telegraph line
The Stuart Highway running through the center of Australia was originally the first international telegraph line on this continent. It enabled Australia to keep in touch with other continents.
Some of the old telegraph stations still stand and have been converted into outback museums. We wandered through a few of these stations along the Stuart Highway.
“Would you have taken an assignment here?” I asked Trin.
“Not sure, it depends,” he responded and we both contemplated what life here might have been like.
Those assigned to and living at stations were responsible for not only relaying messages over the telegraph but also for maintaining the equipment and the lines north and south of their station. They had to be self-sufficient since supplies only arrived about twice a year.
A home at one of the Telegraph stations.
15) Alice Springs
Alice Springs, population 30,470 (2019), is the hub for many activities in the Red Center. It is the place to arrange tours and stock up on supplies. It is a long way from anywhere else but it does have a small airport for those who are pressed for time or simply don’t want to drive all the way to the Red Center of Australia.
16) West MacDonnell National Park
Just driving by the long scenic route through the MacDonnell mountain range is a worthy scenic drive, but there are also many beautiful hikes along the way. Many of them go to permanent waterholes hidden in canyons along the mountain range.
One of our favorite hikes was by Ormiston Gorge. A 9 km hike extends through a valley and up to the edge of the Ormiston pound, not that dissimilar to the Wilpena Pound in the Flinders range. The tail then extends down through the pound and out through a canyon. With a permanent waterhole for swimming at the end.
Trin sitting on the boulders at the mouth of the Ormiston Gorge
17) Kings Canyon
Kings Canyon has multiple hiking trails, however we feel that the rim walk is a must do. We suggest going early in the morning and taking lots of water. There are few places to find shade and the sun can be quite intense. Kings Canyon is definitely one of our top five sites in the Red Center.
The rim trail gives the best views of the colorful sheer cliffs in the canyon.
Looking down into Kings Canyon
18) Tnorala / Gosses Bluff crater
The Macdowels end and the land returns to its flat plain about 177 km west of Alice Springs. But it’s as if the earth had once last say about returning to a flat land. In the distance from Tylers Pass near he end of the Macdowels the Goosse bluff crater adorns the horizon. It is thought to be the remains of an eroded impact crater.
We camped within sight of the crater near the bones of a camel long since past. It’s white skeleton the only thing that remained.
The paths that wander through Kata Tjuta lead us into narrow valleys squeezed between boulders. The conglomerate sits by itself out on the otherwise flat landscape of the region. Only Uluru rises from the horizon in the distance.
Uluru (aka Ayers Rock)
20) Camp in the bush by a ghost gum tree
Camping in the bush was one of the top highlights for us in the Northern Territory. It is so easy to find solitude and peace here.
On our last evening in the Northern Territory we were treated to a stunning sunset, as most of them are in the Territory and another peaceful evening.
The setting sun made the red earth almost glow. Smooth white trunks of the ghost gums stood out in a stark contrast as the sky behind them turned pastel. Darkness fell on the new moon night and the milky way stood out in brilliance.
Jack Johnson singing, “There were so many fewer questions when stars were just the holes to heaven,” echoed through my head as I stood there under the wonder of the universe. The sky above me was filled by the beauty of millions of lights shining out from an inconceivable distance.
The Northern Territory is not just a destination. It is an experience.
Lil’ Beaut camped in the Outback
Bonus: Don’t forget to stop and observe the wonderful wildlife
Thorny Devil, aka mountain devil. He may look mean, but he eats black ants and is quite harmless.
The legendary big lap is a route that circles the continent of Australia following highway 1. Since 85% of the Australian population live within 50km of the ocean this lap also leads through every major city except Alice Springs in the center of the continent.
From 2019 to 2021 we lived in a Toyota Coaster motorhome that we lovingly called Lil’ Beaut. We put over 40,000 kilometers on that bus as we explored the Big Lap with a little detour down to the center. It was definitely the trip of a lifetime.
Check out how much it cost and our favorite places below.
Two roads converge into one seemingly endless stretch of bitumen that connects the east to the west across the bottom of the continent of Australia. One road with no intersections, no mountains to climb, no major curves for 1,203 km (748 miles). That’s longer than the drive from Washington DC to Florida.
Surrounding the road is a vast plain of sand and scrub brush. If I were color blind it would almost seem as though we were crossing the ocean on a road, an ocean made of desert the distant horizon fading away in its unchanging line against the blue sky. An ocean road with camels, kangaroos, wombats, emu, and an occasional cow crossing it.
Camels, wombats, and Kangaroo cross this road. Other signs included emu and cattle. Generally, roadkill occurs between sunset and sunrise when the animals are more active. We were sure to stay off the road and set up camp before dusk.
The limestone desert plain
This road crosses the Nullarbor, a limestone cleft that covers 77,000 square miles. The word Nullarbor comes from the Latin ‘Nullus’ and ‘Arbor’ meaning ‘no trees.’ The Aboriginal word for this plain is ‘Oondiri’ meaning ‘the waterless.’ The average annual rainfall for the area is about 8 inches.
The southern edge of this treeless plain continues in its flat unchanging stretch across the horizon where it ends in a dramatic cliff dropping to the ocean far below on The Great Australian Bight. On a map, this edge of the continent looks like someone took a large bite out of a cookie. From the ground, one can almost see the teeth marks in the perpendicular cliffs of the Bight.
Standing on the Nullarbor plain looking into The Great Australian Bight
The experience of utter remoteness
I can hear a tinge of reverence when people talk about crossing the Nullarbor. Many we have talked to here in Australia have never crossed it. Others proudly puff out their chests a little when they tell us they have crossed it a few times. It is not arrogance, but a sense of accomplishment, a good feeling. It is an experience. Something about the Nullarbor does that. Maybe it is the utter remoteness, the vast open exposure of limestone bedrock that stretches in all directions as far as the eye can see.
We have been anticipating this quintessential outback experience for some time now. Watching the weather, we waited for a week with cooler temperatures predicted. Once we started there would be no shade to escape into, no accessible beaches to swim and cool down in. As the Aboriginal name goes it is waterless.
This passage would be a trek across land that can quickly become an oven and we have no air conditioning. We topped off our water tanks and bottles, filled up our fuel tank and stocked up on our food supply. Then we pointed Lil’ Beaut west and headed out of Ceduna at the top of the Eyre Peninsula where two roads converge into one.
The last settlement
About 75 Kilometers from Ceduna is the town of Penong, population 289 (2016 consensus). It is the last settlement before the Western Australian border 406 km further down THE road, but that border is not even near the end of this road.
We stopped in Penong to view the windmill museum. It is a small park containing donated windmills used by farmers as far north as Alice Springs (near the center of Australia). This is a tribute to the whirling workhorse used to pump water from deep underground. Some farmers have replaced windmills with solar panels but quite a few working windmills can still be seen in the outback.
Windmills at Penong
Roadhouses
There are a few stations along this long narrow road where fuel and food can be purchased. A couple of times the road widens and there are signs that the two-lane pavement also doubles as an emergency landing strip.
Prices at the roadhouses are almost twice what would be paid elsewhere, but they are reasonable given the difficulty of supplying and maintaining these conveniences for travelers. I’m sure the business also need to (and should) pay a premium to those who choose to stay and work along this road.
A few times we spotted lone 20-liter water jugs sitting beside the road. Emergency supplies for anyone who breaks down. They could save a life.
The driver of every caravan and RV we pass waves, it’s almost compulsory. There is a camaraderie in following this road. Everyone who is on it is headed to where you are going or where you came from. It is a shared experience.
The old Nullarbor Roadhouse with the motel in the background. There is a new building now, but I loved the look of this building with the ghost town feel.
Time becomes irrelevant
Occasionally there are dirt tracks extending from THE road. They reach out toward the horizon, what they pursue can not be seen from this singular bitumen journey. The paved two-lane road shimmers in the distance with the familiar liquid movement of a mirage.
Driving a fairly straight road for days across a plain of low scrub brush might sound boring to some, but I found it utterly fascinating. There is a beauty and an otherworldly feel to the sheer size, a size that can not be understood from a single viewpoint. It is the passing of days that gives breadth to the expanse that doesn’t end hour after hour. Time slows to irrelevance and space expands filling our minds with wonder at the vastness.
Looking out into The Great Australian Bight
Mysteries beneath
Despite the sameness on the surface, there are mysteries that lay beneath, caves and sinkholes that we were excited to explore.
Rainwater picks up carbon dioxide from the air and soil creating a weak acid. This acid then seeps into limestone cracks slowly dissolving it creating caves and sinkholes. The Nullarbor is the world’s largest single exposure of limestone bedrock and there are geological wonders to explore beneath her surface.
Trin slowed Lil’ Beaut and I looked around, there were no cars behind or in front of us as far as the horizons. Then I saw what he was slowing for, a narrow dusty track to the right of the road. We turned onto the rutted stone strewn track. Dry branches from the low bluebrush and saltbush vegetation scratched against both sides of Lil’ Beaut as we drove further.
Small cave under the Nullarbor plain
We both kept our eyes out for sections of the track that appeared to be too soft or ruts too deep. We did not want to get our bus stuck out here. A few kilometers from the paved road the dirt track widened into a small parking area from where we could see what we veered off the road for. Stopping the bus we threw on our shoes and walked to the edge of a massive hole in the ground. We walked around the circumference of the hole, but all of the edges were too steep to descend.
At the next sinkhole, we spotted a footpath along the far edge of the sinkhole. It descended steeply down small ledges and steep scree. Carefully we entered a small cave at the bottom. It was cool and damp.
Camping
Our first two nights along THE road we pulled off onto dusty tracks that wound back into the bush and parked for the night. All was quiet except for the occasional road train going by in the night.
A road train at the rest stop. It has 46 tires – or as they spell it in Australia ‘tyres’
On the third night, we navigated a dusty track that leads to the cliff edge of the plain. We had been following various tracks throughout the last two days to see the cliff-side views as we progressed towards Western Australia. On this night we parked near the cliff edge to watch the sunset over the horizon in front of us. Wind gusts came through like passing trains rocking the bus back and forth squealing through our open vents. Then all would be still and only the sound of waves far below us could be heard crashing against the cliffs in a distant refrain.
The open space, absence of towns and lack of other human beings gives campers freedom not felt in more populated areas. In the morning as we were getting ready to leave we heard another caravan park along the cliff edge. Trin started up Lil’ Beaut began to drive out. As we drove past the other caravan, its occupants popped out. It was a middle-aged couple almost skipping to the edge of the cliff in their joy of freedom. Happiness emanated from their every movement. They were both as naked as the day they were born. We feel freedom here, but not quite that much. We will need to clean our dashcam later.
Trin standing on the cliff edge where we camped our third night in the Nullarbor
Border Crossing
We have heard stories about border crossings between states in Australia and heard rumors of major fines for those who try to take forbidden produce or goods across the border. Australia is serious about keeping pests from spreading and Western Australia is free of some of the pests that plague the east coast. We read the list multiple times to make sure we were in compliance.
The border agent came into Lil’ Beaut to have a look inside our refrigerator. Trin pointed out our commercially-packed carrots and the agent asked if we had any garlic. Trin pointed to the garlic he had peeled the night before and placed it in a container in the fridge.
“Good, it looks like you guys read the book and know what you are doing. You are good to go,” the agent said.
He was friendly and asked about our travels. A very pleased smile spread across his face when we told him how much we were enjoying Australia.
We were now a little over halfway across this long road.
Sinkhole beside a dirt road on the Nullarbor
Bats and Dingos
Turning left onto another corrugated dirt road we drove towards the Madura caves. Here the opening to the sinkhole was much larger and the east side sloped giving us easy access to the base of the sinkhole.
At the bottom of the sinkhole, we ducked down and squeezed through a tiny opening in the rocks. After crawling through we found ourselves in a large cave, in the distance we could see light coming in from small holes in the ceiling. We walked along the sandy bottom that had patterns indicative of creek bottoms telling us that water flows through here during the rains. Very little rain falls in this region, but it often comes in a deluge when it does come.
The deeper we walked into the cave the cooler and damper it became. Some of these sinkholes and caves descend below the water table and are explored by expert divers. We stopped when we accidentally disturbed a colony of bats. They began to stir and fly around, so we retraced our steps and crawled back out.
Sinkhole on the Nullarbor where we found the dingo den and crawled into a cave with bats
Within this same sinkhole, another cave opened to the left. This cave had a large opening but only extended about half of a football field under the limestone cleft. Bones were scattered all around the opening of the cavern. They appeared to be of kangaroos. As I progressed deeper the stench of fresher carcasses assaulted me. There were dead kangaroo scattered all over the floor of this den. Some people believe this is a dingo den.
Paleontological Wonder
After exploring the caves we drove further into the desert away from the highway. We stopped to open a gate in the dingo fence, drive-through and close it behind us. The fences help keep dingoes from killing livestock in the area.
We drove another few kilometers to a paleontological dig that I was excited about seeing.
Paleontologists have cleared an area of topsoil away down to the limestone surface. The topsoil is only two to three feet deep and amazingly the limestone surface is well preserved with minimal erosion from the time it lay on the ocean floor. Shells litter the ground giving evidence of the abundant sea life that once thrived above this surface.
Caiguna
Caiguna is a station beside the road with fuel pumps, restrooms, a caravan park, a small convenience store, a restaurant, a hotel and a couple of trees. The complex looks like a small ghost town one might see in an old western. Walking from one end to the other could be done within the space of sixty seconds.
I picked up a squeegee at the fuel pump to wash our windows, it was in shreds and covered with slime. The squeegee at the next pump was just as bad. The attendant next to me was taping signs to the pumps that read “Sorry, no more gas.”
I walked to the last remaining squeegee bucket to find it in the same condition as the other two.
“Sorry we have some on order, they just haven’t arrived yet,” the attendant said as he walked by.
This roadhouse is a long way from anywhere.
The Caiguna station that ran out of gas on the Nullarbor
Just after Trin paid for our fuel the power went out and no one else could pump any fuel.
I waited outside at a picnic table with a bit of shade while Trin used the restroom. A biker sat at the table near me reading and also taking a break in the shade.
“Do you know what time it is?” I had seen a check time zone note on the map I was looking at and thought I should double-check our clocks.
“I have no idea,” he laughed. “My watch says it is 2 PM over in WA, I have no idea what time it is here.”
My phone said 4:30 PM. somewhere we missed a time zone change or two but it wouldn’t have altered anything. We get up with the sun and camp before it goes down. It’s all the markers we need. How different from the life we lived only four years ago when seemingly every half hour was nailed to a deadline.
Fun Fact: Did you know that the longest gulf course in the world stretches across the Nullarbor plain? You can even borrow gulf clubs at one end of the course and return them 1,365 km later at the other end.
Fire
Just a few kilometers from Balladonia we saw a column of smoke rising in the air. This road had been closed for almost two weeks due to uncontrolled fires crossing the road and essentially blocking all traffic between West and South Australia. We had been keeping track of the fire maps and waited a week after the road opened before we began our trek across the Nullarbor. I checked my phone for signal, nothing. Maybe there would be some at the Balladonia station.
As we approached the station I could see smoke in the brush along the ground to the left of the road and knew that the fire was not too far away. We gained a signal at Balladonia but the fire was not even reported on the Western Australia map yet.
The attendant told us that a fire had just started about 15 kilometers down the road where we came from. He said firemen were on their way from Norseman, a town 220 kilometers to the west.
We had planned to camp about 50 km west of here towards Norseman and asked him if he thought it was safe.
“It all depends on the way the wind blows,” he shrugged.
? Dust in the wind ?
We parked at the Newman Rocks area to camp for the night and took note of the smoke on the horizon. We walked out to the water holes nearby where camels are said to come in for a drink. It was a short walk but by the time we got back to Lil’ Beaut, the entire horizon was in a brownish haze. We had some signal here so I checked the WA map again. The fire was finally reported, it advised caution and said firemen are on the way.
One other caravan was parked near us, its owner was also looking at the horizon so we walked over to discuss what we were seeing.
He had just come from Norseman and was unaware that a new fire started up.
“The smoke I saw earlier was gray, this cloud on the horizon is brown. Do you think it is just dust picked up in the wind?” I asked him.
We studied it a while. We could smell the dust, we did not smell smoke so we agreed that it was most likely a dust storm that had picked up.
Trin and I decided that driving in the dust storms in now what was very strong winds might be more dangerous. We decided to wait out the wind. Our neighbors said they would honk if they decided to leave because of fires to alert us.
The winds died down by 10 PM and the horizon cleared, alerts on the map did not change so we stayed for the night.
The end of the road
With nothing much to get in the way, a 90-mile section of this road is the longest straight road in Australia. There is not even a slight curve for 90 miles.
There are no curves but this section of the road felt a little differently than the last 1,000 kilometers that we just traversed from Ceduna.
Along this straight section, we stopped to see a hole in the ground that breathes. The temperature outside was almost 90℉. Beside the road was a very small sinkhole. Air was blowing out of it at a high speed. We stood beside it and it felt like air conditioning running at full power. We basked in the coolness for a while before moving on.
Near the end of the Nullarbor, the limestone shelf drops down into a lower plain just as flat but with a few trees. Here is a lone tree on the lower shelf looking back at the edge of the higher plain.
Approaching the town of Norseman felt like a major event. It had been six days since we left Ceduna. Six days on one road and it ended in a T. We had the option of turning north to Kalgoorlie or south to Esperance. Our water and food mostly depleted by now had lasted the journey. One journey ended, but our exploration of Western Australia now begins.
Mural on an Op Shop (thrift store) in Norseman. “In 1894 prospector Laurie Sinclair found his horse ‘Norseman’ was lame and on inspection discovered a chunk of gold-bearing quartz in its hoof.” I’d call that a BlueDoor of opportunity!
Australia
The legendary big lap is a route that circles the continent of Australia following highway 1. Since 85% of the Australian population live within 50km of the ocean this lap also leads through every major city except Alice Springs in the center of the continent.
From 2019 to 2021 we lived in a Toyota Coaster motorhome that we lovingly called Lil’ Beaut. We put over 40,000 kilometers on that bus as we explored the Big Lap with a little detour down to the center. It was definitely the trip of a lifetime.
Check out how much it cost and our favorite places below.
The Great Ocean Road is famed to be one of the most scenic coastal drives in the world. We had been looking forward to our venture along this scenic route. I wondered if it could be as good as the Kiama Coastal Walk or as scenic as the NSW South Coast.
The Great Ocean Road begins in Torquay, just south of Melbourne, and ends near Allansford. The route is 243 KM (150 miles) long with much of the road hugging the coast or providing quick detours for great coastal views.
The road was built by soldiers returning from WWI in an effort to create access to the coast that previously could only be reached by sea or by rough bushwhack. Built by around 3,000 servicemen, it was a memorial to those who lost their lives during the war.
It has become a major tourist attraction. Due to its popularity, we sped up our track back through Melbourne so that we could complete the Great Ocean Road before school let out in Victoria on December 20th when hordes flock to the region.
The Great Ocean Road stretches between Torquay and Allansford and lies on the south end of the state of Victoria in Australia.
How long does it take?
Some have covered The Great Ocean Road in a day. Maybe all they have is a weekend away from Melbourne, or maybe they joined a bus tour that only stops at a few places but allows them to see the views from the bus. Some like to take it slow and explore every detour along the way. One could take months exploring this region taking all the multi-day walking trails, there is so much to see.
We stopped at multiple information centers to try to get an idea of how much time we would need to tour The Great Ocean Road. Unfortunately, most information centers are merely sales centers for the towns in which they reside. Often the people manning the centers have never even explored the area outside their own city. They provide limited advice for those who prefer nature over the latest shopping center. The information center in Lithgow is an exception. There you will find the secrets of the region.
The Great Ocean Road is highlighted in blue. Suggested detours into Beech Forest and Colac are stared above Cape Otway.
We left Torquay on Dec 3rd and finished The Great Ocean Road on Dec 13th. Ten days to finish, but we had some detours along the way.
What is there to see and do?
The tourist maps and information centers left us wanting. We didn’t know what to expect or what would be in store for us along the way. If you are a nature lover and primarily interested in the best views and the wonders of nature, then this is the overview for you. If you want to know the best restaurants, places to shop, or nice hotels then the information centers are your place.
Torquay to Aireys Inlet
We parked near Torquay for the weekend to avoid the weekend crowds. Monday was cold and rainy and I wasn’t feeling well so we started on Tuesday morning.
There are multiple viewpoints along the route from Torquay to Aireys. The coast here is beautiful, but so far the South Coast of NSW would blow these views away. If you are pressed for time I highly suggest starting your tour in Aireys Inlet.
Views from the Split Point Lighthouse started to spark our interest in this coastal road. Our excitement grew for what was yet to come.
Trin standing at the viewpoint for Split Point
Aireys Inlet to Lorne
The road begins to hug the coast between Airey and Lorne. In Lorne, we took a detour through town up to Teddy’s lookout. Here we could see ahead to what I consider to be the best part of the drive.
Teddy’s Lookout also had an abundance of birds. A Kookaburra, normally shy and difficult to see, stayed around the lookout even perching on a bollard as if posing for pictures. A crowd gathered around him with their cameras clicking while he sat there proudly displaying his bulk.
A flock of Australian Magpies pecked around the parking area singing what I have found to be one of the most beautiful bird songs. Maybe the song is also a bit special to me as it was the song I woke to on my first morning in Australia. Cockatoos and King Parrots seemed to lavish the attention of the tourists.
Lorne to Apollo Bay
Take your time and enjoy the stunning coastal views from Lorne to Apollo Bay. This is what I pictured when I was told about the Great Ocean Road, a road that follows along the cliff-lined edge of Australia with rough seas crashing into the rocks below.
The Great Ocean Road cliffside drive between Lorne and Apollo Bay
Detour to Otway National Park
When I heard that Australia has a forest of California Redwoods I knew that we had to add this to our itinerary. Just before reaching Apollo Bay, we turned Lil’ Beaut northward towards the Great Otway National Park. There we would spend the next few days in the highest rainforest in Victoria.
Yeah, I know multiple websites have stated that California redwoods can only be found from the central coast of California up through Oregon. I can assure you, that I felt their soft bark and inhaled their scent here in Australia.
View looking back as we head off onto a detour into the mountains above the Great Ocean Road
California RedWoods in Australia
A wall of vibrant green reached high into the sky before us. Highlights of light green and yellow of the new shoots decorated the tip of each branch. It drew us closer. A light rain fell around us. Wind penetrated our jackets making us pause to consider going back for our down coats.
The dirt and pea gravel path beneath our feet led up to the wall. At the base of the wall, a small opening in the branches beckoned. We made soft shuffling sounds as we approached the trees. Each tree was already a giant even at its tender age. Clustered together they form a massive spectacle and this small opening like a gaping mouth breathing musty pine breath.
I ducked my head under the branches passing beneath the wall into a time capsule created by the regal California Redwoods. Inside, the rain ceased to fall around us. It was captured by the dense green canopy far above our heads.
The opening in the great wall of pine green into the Redwood forest
Surrounding us the browns and muted reds of tree trunks stand impossibly straight and tall. I lift my gaze following the straight angles of the trunk tilting my head back. There were no branches for a long time. They stand over 60 meters high, it is only the final 20 meters in the sky that reaches out with branches splayed across the sky covering the canopy with needles of green pine. The very top of the trees swayed with the wind, but the solid trunks below remained unmoving.
A Pine Capsule
Together, the trees acting as one created protection against the world outside. The redwoods on the edge of the forest kept their branches all the way down only on the outside edge. Inside was a forest home with walls of pine.
The wind became a distant refrain its effects seen high above and its sound muted. The path disappeared under fallen pine boughs silencing our steps as we moved deeper into the forest.
Inside the California Redwood forest. This grove was planted here in the 1930s making them mere babies under 90 years old. A mature Redwood forest is composed of trees from 500 to 1,500 years old.
Inside this redwood forest, the environment is all of its own created by the regal beings standing tall in unison. Both heat and coolness are muted and controlled by these trees making this garden a safe haven from cold winds or scorching sun.
I pressed my hand against a soft spongy bark and breathed in the scent. The air was clean with only a hint of pine as if it were memory wafting through
Born in CA as I was we both stand here in a distant land. These trees are mere babies their distant cousins in CA living over 2,000 years. Yet they are already twice my age. They may eventually dwarf the eucalyptus forest surrounding this encapsulated grove, but Eucalyptus trees can also reach high into the sky. One such giant stands south of this grove in Tasmania. The ‘Centurion’ a mountain ash (Eucalyptus tree) stands 99.6 meters high above Tasmania’s Arve Valley.
A stream separates the redwoods from the Eucalyptus. It is as if the waters keep a boundary that only a few fern trees have crossed along the edge of the stream.
Fern trees only grow in the southern hemisphere and the California Redwoods only grow in the northern hemisphere. Except for this spot, where they stand together.
These giants will live long beyond my time holding their mystery close for generations to follow. My life is as a vapor or a scent in the air passing through the midst of their strength.
I turned to Trin and asked what he thought and how he would describe the trees here.
“Big,” he shrugged. He is not much for the spoken word but he is a master at the written.
Trin standing next to a California Redwood tree along the inner edge of the forest.
Hopetoun Falls
There is a free campground in the middle of Otway National Park. We stayed two nights in this park giving us time to explore not only the Redwoods but also the trails and waterfalls of this beautiful region. It was cold enough at night for us to pull out our down sleeping bag for an extra layer, but not cold enough to turn on our heater.
Hopetoun Falls in Otway National Park
Apollo Bay to Glenaire
The section of the Great Ocean Road from Apollo Bay goes straight (ish) across the land to Glenaire cutting off the area of land currently part of the cape Otway Park. It is a fee area. Given all the views we will see we didn’t feel the need to spend $50 just to see another lighthouse.
Just below Apollo Bay, we did cut down to the coast in order to hike to the Elliot River waterfall and coast where the river meets the ocean. Our next stop was Glenaire. We saw a few Koalas along the way and the scenery was beautiful. If you plan to skip the pay area around Cape Otway I suggest skipping this section. Instead go North to Beech Forest using C199, C159, and then C155. This is also a spectacularly beautiful scenic drive with multiple rainforest hikes and waterfalls. Lots to see and do.
Rock formations where the Elliot River empties into the ocean
Glenaire to the 12 Apostles
We made one stop on The Great Ocean Road between Glenaire and the 12 Apostles. Our stop was in Melba Gully, but then we threw in a little detour.
The 12 Apostles
Melba Gully and GlowWorms
When we arrived in Melba Gully we threw on our coats and scarves and headed down the trail to scout it out. We planned to follow this trail again later that night to experience it after darkness fell. The trail is well maintained with narrow wooden bridges to cross small streams. Stairs with non-slip surfaces help hikers get down the steepest parts of the gully. In most places, the trail is hemmed in closely with thick vegetation. Water softly drips from the slopes directly next to the trail.
In the depth of Melba Gully is a small cascade of water. The air is continually moist and air cool.
Back at the car park we made dinner in Lil’ Beaut and waited for darkness. Fern trees and eucalyptus surrounded us. I looked up from doing the dishes to see a fox prowling around our little home, probably looking for scraps. We carefully crept around to the window to watch him and try to capture a photo of him. He was skittish and alert to every sound we made even though he could not see us.
The pathway in Melba Gully before dark.
A Midnight Walk
A few other cars had come and gone. After the last vehicle left the lot and full darkness had descended we donned our winter coats and stepped out into the night, alone in the peaceful darkness.
Not far down the trail we turned off our torches and waited. The only sounds were that of soft drops of water and a rustling in the trees from a light breeze. Beside us, the embankment lit up with dots of blue-green light. The glow worms were hungry and luring in their prey. We crept through the forest keeping our lights off as much as possible. The trail has a railing all along the way that helped us feel our way forward.
At the cascade, I stood mesmerized by the tiny dots of light all around us. I never knew a midnight walk into the Australian bush could be so amazing.
The cascade in Melba Gully before dark, after dark the glow worms. I love this spot.
Another Detour
After Melba Gully, we took another detour north to Colac. We decided to spend the weekend there for a small break. While at the grocery store in Colac we met Robert, another Coaster Owner (Lil’ Beaut, our home, is a Toyota Coaster). He ended up inviting us back to his home. There we spent an entire afternoon getting our awning fixed and various other things on Lil’ Beaut that we needed power tools for.
The culture here in Australia has us astounded. The people are so welcoming and giving. Robert just met us but was such a huge help to us. He truly gave without thinking about getting back in return.
Red Rocks Volcano Complex
We camped (parked) next to Lake Colac and watched the sunset. The following morning we drove over to see the viewpoints of the Red Rock Volcano Complex. It is the youngest area of volcanic activity in Australia, but its last eruption was a few thousand years ago.
The interesting part of this volcanic area was the low “rolling hills” of the cones. Multiple craters dotted the landscape that was often filled with water making shallow brackish and saline lakes. With the low rolling hill views it was utterly different than our night atop Telica Volcano in Nicaragua. Then again, Telica was still belching sulfur and throwing stones.
Lil’ Beaut parked at one of the lookouts in the Red Rock Volcano Area
We drove around the crater that forms Lake Beeac. It was low but had a beautiful sheet of water. The moist shores were white with salt. Due to the shallow nature of the crater lake and the saline shores, it was only the reflection of the light on the water that showed us where the shore stopped and the water began. This lake is often four times saltier than the sea.
The 12 Apostles to Allansford
The most iconic portion of the Great Ocean Road is here at the end between the 12 Apostles and Allansford. You may have seen pictures of these sandstone structures that stand tall just off the jagged cliff at the bottom of Australia.
From here to The Bay of Islands we took just about every turn-off. There are multiple little hiking trails available to view this fantastic shoreline. I’ve added the photos in the order they appear on the road so that you can travel down the road with us.
Viewing platform above the 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Walk. The Great Ocean Walk starts at Apollo Bay and ends at the 12 Apostles. It is more than 100 KM (62 miles) long and hugs the coastline.The Razorback was a long thin monolith with a sharp jagged top. The wind and waves have carved beautiful designs in the sandstone structure.Looking down into Loch Ard Gorge. It was here in 1878 that the Loch Ard clipper sunk with 54 people aboard. Tom Pearce and Eva Carmichael, both 18 years old, were the only survivors. After reaching the shore Tom heard Eva’s faint cry and he went back into the debris-filled water to rescue her. He made a bed of grass for her in a cave onshore where they spent the night. The following day Tom scaled the edge to go in search of rescue.Muttonbird Island is home to thousands of migratory birds in September each year. Because it is an island the birds are protected from prey introduced in Australia.Cave in the bottom of the cliff next to the mouth of the Sherbrook River.The London Bridge has fallen down. This stack along The Great Ocean Road used to be two arches. In 1990 the arch connecting this stack to the shoreline fell unexpectedly. The beach below this lookout is inaccessible to tourists. All the footprints are made by the Fairy Penguins also called Little Penguins. They are the same species of penguins we watched arriving late one night on the beach in Tasmania near The Edge of the World.The Grotto is a sinkhole formed in limestone cliffs.Waters next to the James Irvine Monument, site of multiple shipwrecks throughout the years.
I’ll end with an encouragement to add Australia to your bucket list of “must-see places.” It truly is a wonder and the people are amazing. Maybe you will find an opportunity to come to Australia, or maybe you will create the opportunity for you to come.
The legendary big lap is a route that circles the continent of Australia following highway 1. Since 85% of the Australian population live within 50km of the ocean this lap also leads through every major city except Alice Springs in the center of the continent.
From 2019 to 2021 we lived in a Toyota Coaster motorhome that we lovingly called Lil’ Beaut. We put over 40,000 kilometers on that bus as we explored the Big Lap with a little detour down to the center. It was definitely the trip of a lifetime.
Check out how much it cost and our favorite places below.
Kangaroo Valley
The sun had just pulled away its final rays and the night was quiet, surprisingly quiet given the number of other campers in this park. So we were startled when the entire bus began to rock back and forth accompanied by a loud sawing sound from the back of Lil’ Beaut.
Trin and I looked at each other startled. He grabbed the flashlight and ran out the door to try and stop whoever was destroying our home.
The noise stopped. The shaking stopped. Trin came back inside.
“It is a wombat,” he said
“What was he doing?” I asked
“I have no idea, I’ll check the lines underneath in the morning when it’s daylight,” he said
The last time we had trouble with animals under our car was in the Maroon Bells in Colorado where the Marmots are known to chew on the radiator hoses or brake lines. We had slept in our car in the parking lot and in the middle of the night we were awoken by the shaking of the car. We had to get up a few times to shew them off. I hoped we would be able to drive over the mountain pass out of here safely.
The wombat under Lil’ Beaut. Yes, the bus is dirty, there is a drought and washing of cars is not allowed.
When the bus is rocking
The following afternoon I watched another wombat sidle up to Lil’ Beaut. I opened the door to step out and he walked right under the bus. He stopped just under the first step, the step I was currently standing on.
There was only a sheet of metal between my feet and the wombat. I started stomping to scare him away. He didn’t care. It didn’t even faze him. Then I heard the sawing sound so I jumped down to the ground to watch what he was doing. He was arching his back rubbing it on the under metal of Lil’ Beaut. His extremely coarse hair rubbing against metal sounded like a saw.
The entire bus rocked with his strength. I shook my head in disbelief as helpless laughter blurted out of me. Resigned, I continued to set up our outdoor table and chairs. It was a beautiful day to read a book in the cool breeze here in Kangaroo Valley.
We couldn’t decide if we should be amused or annoyed by the wombat waking us up multiple times each night.
A kangaroo and her joey in the field next to Lil’ Beaut
Pitter Pater of Little feet
Completely enthralled in my book, Where the Crawdads Sing, I didn’t hear the soft pitter-patter till a movement by my side caught my eyes. A Pacific Black Duck stood there looking at me from only an arm’s length away. The long stripes on her* head gave her the appearance of having thick eyeliner, Egyptian style.
She stretched out her neck, left leg and wing, revealing a brilliant green patch of secondary feathers underneath. She repeated the stretch on the right side. Then she stood there looking at me. Without as much as a quack, she sat, gave a very soft almost purr from her throat, tucked in her head and took a nap. She napped a good hour in the shade right beside me as I read my book.
Pacific Black Duck who took a nap by my side.
*The Pacific Black Duck is sexually monophonic, meaning that the plumage for both males and females is the same. I don’t really know if this duck was male or female.
Two large trees to the left of Lil’ Beaut were providing shade for a mob of Kangaroos. They have been lazing around all afternoon. As the sun settled lower in the sky they started to move a bit more. One or two at a time they meandered over my way, crossed our campsite and hopped on to the open meadow behind me.
Despite the incidents of the wombat in the night we decided to stay here a few days to catch up on some writing and other projects for Lil’ Beaut. I’m making solar coverings for all the windows to prepare for the fast-approaching summer.
Cliffs along the Kiama coastal walk
Kiama
After a few days in the bush, we headed back over the mountain pass of Kangaroo Valley towards the coast of Kiama. Parking in a little neighborhood we got out to see a small lookout and walkway to a rocky shore.
At the shoreline, we watched and were rewarded. The large waves started coming our way and then with a roar, water shot up through a hole in the basalt lava rock lining the beach. I love blowholes. This one is worth the stop even if it is just a little one. They named it Little Blowhole.
Coastal Walk
Kiama is in the middle of a 22 km (13.7 miles) coastal walk that extends from the Minnamurra River in the north down to Gerringong in the South. It passes through beaches and cliff tops, towns and meadows. It was just the thing we love and a great way to experience this section of New South Wales South Coast.
Basalt lava rock at the edge of an old quarry on the sea shore.
Where the river meets the sea
The Minnamurra River meets the ocean in a display of blue water and white sand creating a lazy pattern at the wide mouth of the river. The patterns are best seen from the top of seaside cliffs that curve around Mystics beach.
Minnamurra River at the north end of the Kiama coastal walk
An otherworldly coast
About midway through the coastal walk there is an old quarry. The basalt rocks that remain standing rigid against the coast create an otherworldly feel.
When we first arrived in this section, we came upon a few photographers capturing a bride and groom posing for what will most likely be a spectacular wedding album. I snapped a picture of her among the basalt rocks. It is the cover photo at the top of this article.
Hey Trin, could you pose up there for a picture. Then a wave crashed on the rocks.
Cliffs of Kiama
The South end of the Coastal Walk below Kiama is more secluded with meadows as far as the eye can see undulating along the top of steep rocky cliffs as it follows the vast expanse of the ocean.
Many of the cliffs were straight drops down to the ocean varying in height. Some of them had a shelf of tessellated pavement that would mostly be covered by the cold waves during high tide.
Trin standing next to one of the water channels in the rock shelf at the bottom of the cliffs near Kiama
Our need to explore up close took us out onto one of these rock shelves at the bottom of a cliff. We jumped over water channels flowing through large cracks in the shelf. The water in these channels at times seemed invisible with clarity that tantalized. The pools were full of Neptune’s Necklace Seaweed, also known as Neptune’s pearls since they look like strings of small pearls. The stringed pearls swayed back and forth with the surge of each wave.
View from the coastal walk in Kiama
Catastrophic power
Some rocks were jagged as if suddenly frozen from their liquid state while in the middle of splashing against a surface that decayed and was washed away long ago. Others stood high and solitary as if once in peaceful rest they were thrust sideways and broken off in a massive catastrophic movement of the earth. The whisper of power blew around us in the salty spray.
A vast portion of the rocks lay prone with small pools of water and raised seams creating a spectacular display of art that, in its randomness, creates a picture of might from afar. These rocks glisten as if sprinkled with silver. Salt alone is plain and white, but against powerful art, these salt crystals reflected grandeur.
Rock shelf at the bottom of the cliffs along the Coastal Walk
We explored the base of the cliff as far as we dared with the tide on the rise. Some of the rocks that I had skipped over on the way out were now a few inches underwater. We made it back to the beach with plenty of time and with wonder in our hearts.
Basalt rock shelf along the coast with intricate patterns
A dragon’s breath
We hung around Kiama an extra day in order to catch the large blowhole that Kiama is best known for. The ocean swell needs to be rolling in from the southeast for her to display her power.
Parking by the Kiama lighthouse we walked towards one of the many viewing platforms to see the iconic blowhole. We gazed down through a large opening in the lava rock that revealed the ocean churning below.
Secluded beach along the rock shelves near Kiama
During our first stop here the previous morning the ocean foamed but showed no signs of her explosive power. The winds were coming in the wrong direction for a good display.
By the afternoon of our second day, the winds had changed to a south south east direction. This was close enough for us to see her roar.
Misty breath from the Kiama blowhole
We stood above the large opening in the basalt lava rock and waited as we heard the crashing of the waves against jagged rocks.
The sounds of the swell echoed up through the opening like a dragon stirring from slumber. Then she exhaled blowing steam through her nostril high into the sky. It continued to breathe, sometimes light which blows mist, sometimes angry spraying the viewing platforms with cold drops of ocean spray.
The salty mist coated our faces making our lips taste the sea.
Trin in a meadow on a cliff edge overlooking the ocean
I long to be like salt for nothing in me is greater than another. I hope to magnify the beauty around me and leave a taste, a taste of wonder and tantalizing exploration of not only travel but ideals.
The legendary big lap is a route that circles the continent of Australia following highway 1. Since 85% of the Australian population live within 50km of the ocean this lap also leads through every major city except Alice Springs in the center of the continent.
From 2019 to 2021 we lived in a Toyota Coaster motorhome that we lovingly called Lil’ Beaut. We put over 40,000 kilometers on that bus as we explored the Big Lap with a little detour down to the center. It was definitely the trip of a lifetime.
Check out how much it cost and our favorite places below.
The Edge of the World lies on a rocky windswept coast and we were headed to its stormy shore. But first, we made a few stops along the way.
Penguin, Tasmania
Along the north coast of Tasmania is a town called Penguin, aptly named for the many penguins that nest in the area. The tuxedo-clad creatures who call this home are the smallest of the penguin species. Their name is just as pragmatic as the town’s name: They are called Little Penguins (or alternatively, Fairy Penguins). They are shy and only come ashore at night.
One night we waited along the shore at dusk near a rookery to see the adult penguins come to feed their young who come out from their homes after the sun goes down. We placed a red film over our flashlight so that we could see the penguins in the dark. Their retinas do not have L-cones so they can not see the red light and are not bothered by it. We stood quietly and waited so as not to scare them.
Wynyard Tasmania (next to Penguin) grows fields of flowers. They host a tulip festival in October.
After a while, we heard the adults calling to their young and the young answering, the chatter becoming more excited as they neared each other. We watched the reunion and nightly feeding with our red light.
Due to the darkness when viewing the penguins we were unable to get any great pictures to share. Instead, here are a few photos of the fields of flowers in Wynyard. The landscape was beautiful but the tulips were not yet in bloom. We were about a week too early.
A Town Reinvented by Art
Cover Photo is artwork by Marc and Debbie Spijkerbosh from New Zealand. This piece is called Promenade “Stepping into an artistic promenade – a journey of discovery and inspiration where nature’s beauty surrounds us.”
Sheffield, Tasmania was a town suffering from a declining population and revenue. The rural town was booming at the time that the dams in the Tasmanian Wilderness were being built. Once the dams were completed so were many of the jobs that gave this town its boom. After years of decline, the town was becoming tired and old.
In 1985 the town council decided that a change was needed and proposed ideas that would reinvent themselves as a tourist destination by creating a “town of murals.” By the following year, the first commissioned mural was completed. The mural began with the artwork of locals but soon it grew in popularity and drew artists from all of Australia.
Each year they hold a mural contest. The new artwork is displayed in a park where everyone from the public can vote on their favorites. This contest now draws in artists from all over the world.
Mural on a church in SheffieldSheffield MuralArtwork adorns the entire town of Sheffield in Tasmania
We walked up and down the streets turning in all directions catching art in every corner of town. It’s a great place to enjoy the afternoon. They have definitely succeeded in their reinvention.
When people grow tired of the current state and join together to make a change beautiful things can happen. This small change made such a big difference in the town.
Hell’s Gates
Our first view of the West Coast of Tasmania was Hell’s Gates, located at the mouth of the Macquarie Harbour. It has hazardous tidal currents but this danger is not the origin of the name. In the early 1800s, this was a place of “extreme physical and mental torture” .[1] Convicts which included Aboriginal people who defended their homes were imprisoned here. They were subject to hard labor and extreme weather. It was the prisoners who named the entrance to Macquarie Harbour Hell’s Gates.
Looking out onto Hell’s Gates
We strolled along the fine white sand and pulled our jackets in close as the cold wind caused us to shiver, its strength taking our breath. The waters that lapped on the shore within this shallow harbor are dark, stained almost red by the tannin of the button grass so prevalent here.
This is a beautiful but wild shore. I contemplate as the reddish waters lapped the white sands. The wind whistled a tale of madness. Was this a tale of convicts’ blood against the pure innocence on the sand?
Stanley’s Nut
We enjoyed a few childish jokes and laughs on our way to Stanley. We were on our way to see The Nut, a big rock outcrop on the coast in Stanley. There is a short but steep paved path up to the top of this rock that looks over the entire town of Stanley. At the top, a 2 KM loop encircles the plateau. Winding through forests and following the cliff edge of the loop is a beautiful scenic hike.
The views from the top are amazing. If you prefer to skip the steep walk up, you can take a ski lift to the top.
The Nut in Stanley
The Tarkine Drive
The Tarkine Drive is a 130KM scenic drive through Tasmania’s Northwest wilderness area.
Our first stop along this drive was Bluff Hill Point. We slowly made our way over the washboard road headed to the rocky coast. Near the end of the road, a few houses clustered around. We parked and started hiking along the trail.
A dog started barking. The owner called him back. We waved, and he asked how we were doing, then came out to greet us, welcoming us to this end of the island.
Rocks and sand on the beach at Fluff Hill Point
He told us that camping/access was no longer allowed in this area because the land had been given back to the Aboriginal people.
“They haven’t done anything with it and I see no reason you can’t explore it. There are some great places to camp just over the hill. I’m the only one here tonight so enjoy,” he said.
He gave us a few tips and then wished us well on our walk. The rocky shore was raw and untouched. Seaweed lay where it washed ashore and waves crashed against the jagged shoreline.
The Edge of the World
After making our way back to the Tarkine Drive sealed road, we followed the coast south. A vast plane of button grass surrounded us just before a small turn to the left appeared. Another viewpoint lay at the end of this gravel road.
We took the turn and everything inside Lil’ Beaut including us began to vibrate over the washboard surface. Trin dodged the largest potholes and eventually pulled up to a small parking area on the desolate edge of Tasmania.
A signpost welcomed us to The Edge of the World. This Edge of the world is not to be confused with the End of the World in Ushuaia at the lowest end of Patagonia. Both do have that same feel as if nothing lies beyond their shores.
Walkway to the Edge of the World
Deep thunder and frozen tears at the end of the world
Here at the edge of the world, a storm threatened. We got out of Lil’ Beaut into a cold wind and light rain. We shivered and jumped making our way towards the beach. This was no calm beach with the rhythmic lapping of the water.
The salty spray was thrown far into the air as currents hit the jagged rocks all around our basalt ridged vantage point. The deep thunder of the waves growled their warnings while churning waters displayed evidence of undertows and rip currents. The gray sky cried frozen tears and the angry wind drove through us forcing us to pull our jackets close in around us and we shivered as we stood transfixed at the Edge of the World.
I’m no flat-earther and a round object like our planet has no defined edges but still, the name seems to be fitting. There is no land between this point and Argentina more than halfway around the planet. Laying in front of us as far as the eye could see is the longest uninterrupted expanse of ocean on the earth.
I cast my pebble onto the shore of Eternity. To be washed by the Ocean of Time. It has shape, form and substance. It is me. One day I will be no more. But my pebble will remain here. On the shore of Eternity. Mute witness for the eons. That today I came and stood. At the edge of the world. – Brian Inder
The End of the Road
We continued our journey across the Tarkine Drive. The rain continued intermittently, we dodged one tree that hung precariously over half the road.
Suddenly Trin stopped Lil’ Beaut and I looked up to see why he was stopping in the middle of the road. A fallen tree blocked the entire path. It was not a large tree, I could almost circle the trunk with my hands, but not quite.
I got out to see if it could be moved. Unfortunately, the roots were still firmly attached in the soil keeping us from being able to swing it either way. The smaller branches easily broke off but the trunk that reached across the entire diameter would not be moved and we did not have a saw.
It seems that the Edge of the World would be the end of our exploration of Tasmania, at least for now. We turned around and drove back the way we came. We spent one last beautiful and chilly night just outside Devonport before taking The Spirit of Tasmania ferry to Melbourne the next day.
Adventure awaits, and the mainland calls our name.
