Hoodoos towered over us like colossal stone mushrooms as we wandered down a sandy path in Cappadocia, Turkey. These rock spires—remnants of ancient volcanic activity—looked almost otherworldly, reminiscent of the formations I had marveled at in Bryce Canyon, Garden of the Gods, and even the Pinnacles Desert of Western Australia.
But here in Cappadocia, these formations hold something extra magical—many have doors and windows carved into them. People have lived inside these rock spires for centuries, some still live there today. Their whimsical cap rocks resemble the pointed roofs of an ancient, mystical village, which is why they are often called “fairy chimneys.”
Göreme: The Fairy Chimneys
Stepping through a tiny doorway, we entered a room carved directly from the soft volcanic tuff. The cool, dim interior invited our imaginations to run wild.
Many of these fairy chimneys were transformed into homes, monasteries, and churches by early Christians seeking refuge. However, Cappadocia’s underground cities date back even further—some historians believe they were first carved by the Hittites around 1200 BCE, later expanded by early Christians to create hidden sanctuaries and places of worship.
Three Amazing Hikes near Göreme
Cappadocia offers incredible hiking, with three must-see valleys within walking distance from Göreme. Each was unique and worth dedicating a full day to exploring.
Despite the crowds at major viewpoints, once we hit the trails, we found solitude—free to wander, explore, and soak in the magic of the landscape.
Pigeon Valley
Pigeon Valley is lined with cave homes dug directly into the valley walls. The fertile volcanic soil nourishes quince fruit trees and wild grapevines, making the hike as scenic as it is peaceful.
Rose Valley
Rose Valley led us through ancient dwellings, rock-cut chapels, and tunnels carved into the colorful rock formations. At one point, we had to squat-walk through a narrow tunnel, barely squeezing through to the other side. Exploring here felt like stepping back in time.
Love Valley
Let’s just say this valley is appropriately named—and I’ll leave it at that. The unique, towering rock formations here make it one of Cappadocia’s most iconic landscapes.
How the Hoodoos Were Formed
Cappadocia’s dramatic landscape was shaped by volcanic eruptions from nearby Erciyes and Hasan volcanoes. Layers of volcanic ash compacted into tuff, a soft, porous rock that is highly susceptible to erosion from wind, rivers, and rain. Over time, a harder layer of basalt formed over the tuff, creating protective cap rocks that shielded the pillars below. The result? The towering fairy chimneys we see today—some reaching heights of 130 feet.
A Modern Glimpse into Hoodoo Formation
Many believe that the process of erosion takes thousands of years, but we have modern observed examples of hoodoo formation in action that show it can happen rapidly.
The Novarupta eruption in Alaska (1912), one of the most powerful volcanic eruptions in history, blanketed a 40-square-mile area in volcanic ash up to 700 feet deep. Over time, the River Lethe carved deep canyons into the soft tuff, revealing how erosion shapes hoodoos and landscapes similar to Cappadocia’s.
Sleeping in a Cave Lodge – Güzelyurt
For the full experience, we stayed in a cave lodge in Güzelyurt, a quieter region away from the main tourist hub of Göreme. Our room, carved directly into the rock, had stone walls and an arched ceiling, making us feel like we had stepped back in time.
Just steps from our cave door, a cliff edge offered stunning views of the sunset over Mount Hasan, one of the volcanoes responsible for the unique landscapes of the valley. Below, a tapestry of ancient, mostly abandoned cave dwellings unfolded.
From Güzelyurt we could walk into Monastery Valley, where we explored the 4th century home to St. Gregory Church and a valley full of other cave dwellings. (built in the ). The area was delightfully less crowded, with only locals going about their daily lives, giving us a peaceful, authentic glimpse into the past.
Exploring the Underground Cities
Cappadocia, located along the ancient Silk Road, was vulnerable to invasions from the Persians, Byzantines, and Ottomans. During the Roman Empire, Christians faced intense persecution. To escape these threats, they expanded Cappadocia’s underground cities—creating massive subterranean refuges that could shelter thousands.
We met two British travelers, Dianne and Sharon, who offered us a ride to Nevşehir on their way to Göreme. From there, we took a short bus ride to Kaymaklı, one of the deepest underground cities in Cappadocia.
Descending into Kaymaklı felt surreal. The city extends eight levels deep and plunges 100 meters to its water source. Only four levels are open to visitors, but they reveal a labyrinth of tunnels, storage rooms, stables, kitchens, and even a church. Ingeniously designed ventilation shafts provided fresh air, while massive stone doors sealed off passages for protection.
As we wandered the tunnels, we often found dark, narrow passageways leading deeper underground, requiring us to use our phone flashlights to explore. At one point, we stumbled into a large, empty chamber, where we sat and ate lunch in total silence, surrounded by history.
Today, these ancient underground cities stand as a testament to human resilience, hidden beneath a landscape that already feels like something out of a fairy tale.
We took five different buses back, narrowly catching our last connection before nightfall. Unless you love the adventure of public transit, renting a car is the best way to explore.
Is Turkey Safe for Travelers?
Turkey is vast, with varying safety levels. While the U.S. State Department issues a Level 4 “Do Not Travel” warning for the Syrian border, most of Turkey—including Cappadocia, Istanbul, and the coastal regions—falls under a Level 2 “Increased Caution” advisory, the same level as the United States and Sweden.
Culturally, Turkey is conservative, but in major cities like Istanbul, we saw a mix of traditional and Western attire. Shorts and tank tops were not uncommon in some areas of Istanbul, while modest dress was more prevalent in rural towns.
Shopping in Turkey: A Pleasant Surprise
Before visiting Turkey, we were dreading aggressive merchant harassment, thinking it might be similar to Morocco, where vendors often pursued us down the street and pressured us into buying.
We were pleasantly surprised by the ease of shopping and walking through the market places in Turkey. The vendors were mostly straightforward and respectful. Only once did we encounter a vendor who attempted to price gouge us. Unlike our experience in Morocco, we didn’t experience any aggressive haggling or pushy sales tactics. This welcoming atmosphere left us feeling eager to return to Turkey.
Getting Around in Cappadocia
To visit the underground cities, take a local bus from Göreme or Uçhisar to Nevşehir, then connect to Kaymaklı or Derinkuyu. If staying in Güzelyurt, the journey requires a series of buses—making Göreme or Uçhisar the better bases unless you rent a car.
We stayed a few nights in both Göreme and Uçhisar. Göreme is close to the action, busier, but will get you closer to the hot air balloons that rise up across the landscape at sunrise each morning. Uçhisar. is a little quieter and has good access to a few hikes.
Don’t Overlook What They Cherished
Cappadocia is enchanting—its whimsical fairy chimneys, hidden cave churches, and rich history of resilience make it a destination like no other.
It’s easy to focus on what another culture lacks, but sometimes, what we take for granted is what they held dear and cherished most. We came to Cappadocia expecting breathtaking landscapes. We left with a profound appreciation for its history, its people, and the stories etched into its ancient rock walls.
